Fabric sample, made in England, 1980s.

This fabric has many names but is commonly known as shweshwe. The origins of this style of textile can be traced back to the European resist-dye techniques of the mid-1800s. Some of the first to take up the fabric in Africa were the IsiXhosa in the Eastern Cape region of South Africa, and it has become part of Southern Africa’s cultural heritage. Traditionally worn by newly married Xhosa women, makoti, shweshwe has a place not only in traditional outfits such as dresses, skirts, aprons and wraparound clothing, but has also been continuously reimagined throughout the 20th and 21st centuries. It is still being incorporated into modern fashions.