This 100% cotton fabric sample, made by ABC Wax, Machester, has a design called New Fine Trail.

To produce wax prints, the cloth is first passed through a set of two printing rollers. The rollers print a layer of resin (in place of wax) onto both sides of the cloth. The cloth is then dyed, usually in indigo. When the resin is removed, areas covered in the resin are left undyed. Additional layers of colours and patterns are added by repeating this process or by using hand-printing blocks or rollers. Part of the appeal of the wax prints is the small, irregular bubbles and crackling effect to emerge, making each fabric complex and unique.

Developed to suit their customers’ tastes, Manchester-based designers responded to feedback on popular colours and patterns. Sellers would inform merchants which styles were in demand and suggest motifs that would sell well. Colour preferences, motifs and cultural symbols varied across the countries and regions.

Designs and colourways have often taken on meanings and names and become associated with specific events, celebrations and proverbs. Equally, designs were also inspired by events, celebrations and proverbs. The fabric may represent something the wearer wants to express, such as whether they are educated, wealthy or pregnant, usually through representing a well-known phrase or proverb. One pattern might mean that the wearer is arguing with their partner or family, and another might say that the wearer is ready to marry.